Embroidery Techniques Guide
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The Differences Among Three Techniques—and the Appeal of Each
Even when we simply say “embroidery,” dozens of techniques exist around the world. Among them, the three most widely enjoyed in Japan are surface embroidery, cross-stitch, and sashiko. Each has its own tools, methods, and modes of expression—completely different worlds.
Surface Embroidery—Embroidery of Free Expression
Surface embroidery is a technique of freely drawing a design and stitching as if painting with needle and thread. By combining dozens of stitches—outline stitch, satin stitch, French knots, and more—any expression becomes possible: flowers, animals, landscapes, and beyond.
Its greatest feature is a high degree of freedom. Unbound by a rigid chart, the same design becomes a completely different piece depending on the stitcher—through color choices and how thread is layered.
The standard thread to use is COSMO® No.25 embroidery thread. The joy of combining your own palette from a lineup of more than 500 colors is one of the deepest pleasures of surface embroidery.
See COSMO® No.25 Embroidery Thread →
Cross-Stitch—Counting, Until Dots Become a Picture
Cross-stitch is a technique of regularly arranging × (crosses) while counting the fabric weave. Designs are shown on a grid-like chart; you choose thread by color number and stitch × in the specified positions.
Its greatest features are reproducibility and a sense of achievement. If you follow the chart, anyone can complete the same piece. The unique pixel-like texture is an expression that only cross-stitch has.
Using even-weave fabric such as Java cloth makes the places to pass the needle clear at a glance and easier to stitch.
See COSMO® Java Cloth (Embroidery Fabric) →
Sashiko—The Beauty of Straight Lines Born from Japanese Tradition
Sashiko is traditional embroidery long passed down in Japan. Geometric patterns are expressed by regularly overlapping straight lines on fabric. Originally developed in the Tohoku region for reinforcing and insulating cloth, its simple beauty is widely revalued by handmade enthusiasts today.
Representative patterns include “Shippo-tsunagi,” “Asa-no-ha,” and “Kaki-no-hana,” each carrying auspicious meanings and regional history.
Thread for sashiko is dedicated thread different from surface embroidery thread. COSMO®’s hidamari® sashiko thread ranges from solid singles to gradients, multicolors, and mottled (speckled) looks, covering everything from classical white-thread sashiko to contemporary color use.
See hidamari® Sashiko Thread →
Comparing the Three Techniques
| Surface Embroidery | Cross-Stitch | Sashiko | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | Europe | Europe | Japan |
| Expression | Free / pictorial | Dot / chart-faithful | Geometric / linear |
| Difficulty | Intermediate–advanced | Beginner–intermediate | Beginner–intermediate |
| Typical projects | Botanical embroidery / portraits | Samplers / characters | Dishcloths / coasters / clothing repair |
| COSMO® matching thread | No.25 & No.5 embroidery thread | No.25 embroidery thread | hidamari® sashiko thread |
Which Technique for Your Next Stitch?
The three techniques each hold independent worlds, yet they are connected by the single thread of embroidery. Trying a different technique after the one you are doing now further expands the possibilities of needle and thread.